"Born in storms on the open sea, waves do not have gentle beginnings. They are wild at birth. Through the discipline of wind and gravity, they are transformed into rhythmic swells of uniform height still containing the power of the storm which formed them as they travel across thousands of miles to distant shores. As the swells enter the shallow coastal waters they crest, and in one last dramatic moment, display their power and beauty as they break onto the shores of their destination. It is here at the death of a storm's energy that the surfer connects with the wave, using it to express himself, just as a painter uses the canvas, or a dancer the stage. It is here between the wind and the water, that man performs an intense duet with the sea."
Mickey Muñoz.
